False starts and shifts in World Rankings: The Penultimate Speed World Cup

Today, July 12, was the second day of the Chamonix Lead and Speed World Cup. Nearly 500 athletes from 37 countries competed in the two events. The Speed competition was the penultimate competition in the 2019 circuit. 

Following a false start by Elizaveta Ivanova (RUS), YiLing Song (CHN) won the gold medal. Song now has three golds for 2019 and has pulled ahead of Anouck Jaubert (FRA) in the Overall Ranking. Jaubert fell in the 1/8 final round and ended the competition in 16th, dropping to second in the season ranking.

Alfian Muhammad (INA) won his second gold medal of 2019 in his match against QiXin Zhong (CHN). Bassa Mawem (FRA), remained in first in the Overall Ranking, despite finishing the day in seventh after a false start in the quarter final against Vladislav Deulin (RUS), who is now second overall. The race to win the Overall will be a close one, primarily between Mawem, Deulin and Dmitrii Timoffev (RUS).

Of note, the first American to make finals this year was John Brosler. He finished the competition in eighth. 

Qualifiers for the Lead competition took place earlier today. Janja Garnbret (SLO), the Overall winner of the 2019 Bouldering series and winner of the first Lead World Cup last weekend in Villars, topped both routes. She is currently tied with Chaehyun Seo (KOR), who is only 15- years-old. This is Seo’s second time competing in a World Cup. Ai Mori (JPN) is also 15 and came in third.

Adam Ondra (CZE), despite his recent wrist injury, was the only male competitor to top both routes. Alex Megos (GER) and Romain Desgranges (FRA) finished the day close behind Ondra, in second and third, respectively. Desgranges is the oldest competitor on the circuit, at 36. 

Four Americans qualified for semifinals: Sean Bailey in 15th, Nathaniel Coleman in 19th, Ashima Shiraishi in 6th and Margo Hayes in 20th. Brooke Raboutou was two spots out. 

Lead semifinals begin tomorrow at 2am and finals at 2:30 pm MST.

Feature image by Eddie Fowke.



 

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  • Delaney Miller is a three time U.S. Champion in the open Sports Climbing Series. In total, Miller has won 12 Championship titles between youth and adult, National and Pan-American competitions. She has three years of coaching experience and a degree in Health and Exercise Science from Colorado State University.

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