Latest
Do Climbing and Alcohol Mix?
Alcohol and climbing have a long history. A nutritionist dives into the pros and cons of crag drinks.
You Climb? You Are Probably Going to Get Arthritis.
Climbing is hard on your joints, but take care of yourself and you can minimize the damage or at least delay the inevitable.
These are the Funniest Climbing Clips We’ve Ever Seen
14 climbing clips, all free on the internet, all funny.
“The Best Storyteller on the Planet.” Loved Ones Remember Everest Icon David Breashears.
Famed mountaineer, filmmaker, and Everest pioneer David Breashears died on March 14. Those who knew him best share memories of the legendary alpinist.
When You Clip a Bolt or Climb on Public Lands, You Can Thank This Guy
Roughly from 1986 to 1993, Armando Menocal was one of the founders and de facto leader of the nascent Access Fund. It is hard to imagine where climbing would be today without him. He fought for climbers’ rights, and though he wasn’t a fan of bolts he believed the government shouldn’t dictate how or where climbers place them. When government agencies tried to ban bolts, Armando stood in their way.
Weekend Whipper: Climber Dangles From Ice Dagger. Then It Snaps.
“Upside-down double-heel hook” is not in our mixed-climbing vocabulary. Maybe that’s for a reason.
Seán Villanueva-O’Driscoll Completes Massive Solo of Paine Towers, Patagonia
The ‘Travesía Doble M’ (5.11 A2; 2,200m), is the first time all four summits have been connected in a push—with or without a partner.
6 Reasons to Watch The North Face’s Film About Jacopo Larcher (And 1 Reason Not To)
It’s all fun and games until you start ruining narrative flow.
Interview: Kai Lightner on Making the FA of ‘Death of Villains’ (5.15a)
We caught up with Lightner to learn more about ‘Death of Villains,’ his training, and—after an eight year interlude—what it took to surpass what he believed to be the peak version of himself.
Is Alabama One of the Best Places to Live As a Climber?
With the acquisition of the Citadel, one of the oldest climbing access projects in the southeast, another killer Bama crag is open for business.
Training
The Training Bible: A Complete One-Year Training Plan
This eight-phase (12-month) training series will present specific workouts based on the principles of periodization. Each six-week segment will build upon the previous one.
Technique
Moving Fast Means Climbing More: Alex Honnold’s Favorite Efficiency Tricks
Honnold is famous for (among other things) cramming as much climbing as he can into each day. To do so, he's developed some efficiency tricks that the rest of us can imitate.
Longreads
Ripcord: A Story of Fame, Love, and Tragedy
The void swallowed him alive, his streaking form more easily imagined than described. The air froze in my chest.
Weekend Whippers
Weekend Whipper: Ice Soloist Lets Go of Both Axes and Decks. (He Lives.)
There are two miracles in this week's whipper: 1) He survived. 2) He caught the fall on video.
Gear
How To Choose, Fit, And Break In Rock Shoes
Stop wasting your money on shoes that don't fit or are painful or fail you. Don't be disappointed again. Here's how to buy what' just right, just for you.
People
What Ever Happened to Mason Earle?
When one of the world’s best crack climbers was grounded by chronic fatigue syndrome, his life became an uphill struggle just to feel human again.
Our Most Popular Article
They Climbed On a Home Depot Rope—Thought A Real Rope Was Too Expensive
They figured they knew enough about climbing to wing it, but took a dangerous risk that could have cost them.
During my senior year of high school, my friends and I were bored. We decided we collectively knew enough about climbing for it to be safe. We went to the local outfitter and bought harnesses, carabiners, and belay devices, but we scoffed at the price of a rope. It was way outside our budget. Instead, we went to Home Depot and bought 100 feet of poly cord that was rated for 200 pounds. We climbed on that rope all day, just easy 5.3 climbing on toprope. I’ve included a couple photos. It wasn’t until I was lowering at the end of the day that I realized what a mistake I’d made. The 100-foot rope had stretched to about 200 feet, shrinking to the size of 8mm cord. I bought a real climbing rope the following week. Wanted to share because we are all new at some point and even with the best intentions mistakes are made. We should collectively work together to improve safety across the sport. I wish someone would have stopped us from climbing on that poly rope.
—Kyle Harris, via email
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LESSON: Modern climbing ropes include a number of climber-friendly features. They can hold thousands of pounds of force. They have durable sheaths that prevent abrasion and cutting. They have the ideal amount of stretch to catch a fall softly, and then bounce back to their original length and diameter. They’re supple and easy to tie and untie. They’re tested to meet rigorous safety standards. And they work great with modern belay devices. A random hardware store rope is not designed with any of these goals in mind, and can’t be expected to meet them. Always use proper climbing gear designed and rated for climbing.
Want more? Check out more installments in our ever-growing hall of shame:
Lucky He Didn’t Die. Lowered From a Toy Carabiner