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It’s been just four short weeks since the first World Cup of the season in Meiringen, but already the Bouldering circuit is halfway finished after the third stop in Chongqing, China this past weekend. Athletes have three more bouldering competitions to test their skills until the World Championship in Hachioji, Japan in August. Thus far, seval leading athletes have comfortably established themselves as familiar faces on the podium and as contenders for the 2020 Olympics.
For the men’s qualification round, key player Adam Ondra, from the Czech Republic, was missing from the field. Ondra, the winner of the Meiringen World Cup, was sick last week and had to cancel his trip in hopes of recovering before the Wujiang World Cup.
The only American to qualify in the men’s bracket for semifinals was Nathaniel Coleman, who settled into 17 place. Finalists included Anze Perharc, from Slovenia, Japanese climbers Tomoa Narasaki and Kokoro Fuji, French climber Manuel Cornu, Sasha Lehmann from Switzerland, and Aleksy Rubtsov, from Russia.
The finals round proved to be a close race between Cornu and Narasaki. Both competitors ended the round with three tops in five attempts. Boulder number three proved to be the decisive test after Narasaki false started and then topped it second try. Cornu flashed the third boulder and claimed his first career gold with just one fewer attempt to a bonus hold in his overall score. Peharc, the only competitor to top the fourth boulder, took bronze.
In the women’s bracket, three Americans—Ashima Shiraishi, Alex Johnson and Margo Hayes— made it into semifinals. Shiraishi came the closest to qualifying for finals after finishing the semifinal round in ninth place. Slovenia continued the domination it started in Moscow after two more athletes, Janja Garnbret and Katja Kadic, qualified for finals. Akiyo Noguchi from Japan Jessica PIlz from Austria, Petra Klinger from Switzerland and Futaba Ito from Japan also qualified for the ultimate round.
Garnbret and Noguchi were the only competitors to achieve four tops. Garnbret had four fewer attempts than Noguchi, earning her third gold medal from the third Bouldering World Cup of the season. Garnbret now has 26 gold medals from IFSC World Cups and Championships. Pilz, who won the 2018 Lead World Championship, proved herself to be an all-around climber after achieving third, her first bouldering podium finish.
Results can be found below. Complete results are on IFSC.
IFSC Climbing World Cup Chongqing 2019 – Bouldering Semi-Finals
IFSC Climbing World Cup Chongqing 2019 – Bouldering Finals