Pro Tips: Motivation

Expert advice for staying psyched.
Akiyo Noguchi on her way to fourth place in the 2018 Combined World Championships, Innsbruck, Austria. Photo by Vladek Zumr

To break through to a higher grade, you have to be a fuller climber. Imagine yourself wanting to be a more detailed, well-rounded climber: Think to yourself, What do I need in order to do that? You have to identify your strong points and your weak points. Then you have to implement a plan and work on it with a clear goal. (And always stretch and rest enough!)

—Akiyo Noguchi, JPN, 21x Bouldering World Cup Gold Medalist, Olympic-qualified athlete


The best way is to have process motivation, not only goal-oriented motivation. Don’t train only because you want to send your project. Train because you enjoy it. Write down the elements you like about training and read them when you feel like you lack motivation.

— Adam Ondra, CZE, 2014, 2016 and 2019 Lead World Champion, Olympic-qualified athlete


[Also Read: Feature Profile: Adam Ondra]


I find when I am training on my own the motivation I get from music is key. Putting on tunes that get me moving on days I just can’t get psyched to train always helps get me started. My secret weapon is any Beyonce song, but mostly her “Homecoming Live” album!

—Hannah Baldwin, GBR, 2018 and 2019 Paraclimbing World Champion


Climbing on rock between competitions is a good way to stay motivated and take satisfaction when you are in shape. Don’t be too hard on yourself. Bad days exist and they are useful for improving.

—Laura Rogora, ITA, 2019 Lead, Bouldering and Combined Youth World Champion, Olympic-qualified athlete


Progress requires regularity, so pay attention to yourself and your lifestyle. Drink water regularly, have adequate nutrition before and after your training, get a good night’s sleep. And do not exercise the day after a party or if you slept poorly, to avoid injury.

—Mickael Mawem, FRA, 2019 European Bouldering Champion, Olympic-qualified athlete


Climb because you love it and focus on having fun. It will be a lot easier to maintain the motivation for your long-term goals if you enjoy the process.

—Hannes Puman, SWE, eighth at the 2019 Lead World Championships


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